We really loved the Grand Canyon and felt like we were truly immersed in the South Rim experience. But we didn’t get a chance to see the north side, and we’d love to see more of the Tonto Trail.
I’d even love to stay at the Phantom Ranch again! However, I’ll hold out for a 2-night stay next time. I better start trying now! I’d also prefer to go in October when the temperatures are less treacherous.
Here are the key things we’d think about on a future trip.
Add an extra day BEFORE the inner rim hike
Our first day was 10 hours of driving, and even though we arrived around 2:30 PM, we were focused on prepping for our trek down and didn’t have much time to explore. This is how we’d do it next time.
Day 1: Drive in, Explore Desert View, Check In
We’d still drive 10 hours coming in, but leave a little later in the day (6:00 AM is not my favorite). We’d plan to arrive around 4:00 PM, including the time change.
- We kind of missed out on the Desert View area this time. I am directionally challenged (thank goodness Chris drives us around) and I assumed we’d pass it again on our way home, but we drove out the other end. We did stop at the Watchtower for a few minutes on the day we drove in, but we didn’t stay long since we had to drop off our mule bag before 4:00 PM. Next time I’d like to actually ascend to the top of the Watchtower. It is free, you just have to get a timed ticket.
- We would also stop at all the viewpoints between The Desert View area and the Bright Angel Lodge. I believe 2 hours would be sufficient in this area.
- We’d plan to check into our hotel or campground site in the Bright Angel area around 6 PM. We’d grab some dinner and enjoy the views.
Day 2: Rim Trail to Hermit’s Rest, Prep for Inner Rim
We’d SLEEP IN!
- We’d spend the morning walking along the Rim Trail that leads to Hermit’s Rest, getting on and off shuttles as desired. It’s a beautiful and easy trail with stunning views – and it would be a good warm up to the big hike going down the next day! We would FOR SURE bring a lunch and eat on one of the picnic tables along the Rim.
- We’d make sure to get our duffel bags turned into the Mule Barn before 3:30 PM if we were planning to use the mule service again.
- Grab dinner and go to bed early!
Day 3: How we’d spend Day 3 would depend on if we got Phantom Ranch reservations or not.
2 Nights at Phantom Ranch:
Day 3: We’d descent down South Kaibab and spend the night at Phantom Ranch (7.5 STEEP downhill miles)
Day 4: We’d hike to Ribbon Falls and back to Phantom Ranch and spend another night (13 mostly flat miles)
Day 5: We’d hike up Bright Angel (9 STEEP uphill miles) – I am eager to see the part of this trail that was closed this time around
Day 6: Drive home!
- I’d pay for the mule duffel service going down, but not going back up
- I’d pay for the stew dinner on day 3 and the steak dinner on day 4 (steak dinner is earlier and would allow for an earlier bed time for the trek back)
- I’d pay for breakfast on day 4 before the hike to Ribbon Falls, but not on day 5 as we’d leave earlier than it would be ready
- I’d skip paying for the sack lunch
No Phantom Ranch:
I wouldn’t be likely to stay for only one night at Phantom Ranch again. If I couldn’t get a 2-night reservation, I’d settle for staying a few nights in a hotel or in our camping trailer at the South Rim.
Day 3: We’d do a mini version of the trip we’ve already done, focusing on our favorite parts
South Kaibab ➡️ Tipoff Point ➡️Tonto Trail ➡️ Havasupai Gardens ➡️Bright Angel Trailhead.
This would be a long strenuous day going 14-15 miles altogether. Even in October, we’d have to start early.
Day 4: Drive home! This is a great option if we don’t want to leave the kids and pups home for too long. Hopefully one day our kiddos can have strong enough hiking legs to join us!
Tonto Trail:
The whole trail is 90+ miles, so it’s not likely we’ll see the whole thing. We for sure want to explore more of it, though to see more than we have already could possibly require camping overnight, which in turn would require a backcountry permit. If we want to see more of the Tonto Trail, the most likely thing we’d do would be to hike the Horseshoe Mesa Loop. This is around 9 miles.
Grandview Trailhead ➡️Horseshoe Mesa ➡️Cottonwood Creek ➡️Tonto Trail ➡️Grandview Trailhead
This would be a challenging day hike, but it would reward us with historic mining ruins and the opportunity to see more of the Tonto Trail that we loved without requiring a backcountry permit. Hopefully one day Cave of the Domes reopens, but even without it, this sounds like a hike we’d enjoy.
I could be persuaded to obtain a backcountry permit for the chance to see the Hermit’s Camp ruins, but we’ll see about that!
North Rim:
Chris would be open to hiking down to Phantom Ranch from the North Rim, staying one night, and hiking up the Bright Angel Trail. This would require a using the Trans-Canyon Shuttle to get back to our starting point at the North Rim.
I’m not convinced this would be worth it. I’ve heard:
- The North Kaibab Trail is steeper and tougher than the South Kaibab Trail (which my knees still remember).
- The views from the South Rim are superior
- The best part of the North Kaibab Trail is Ribbon Falls – which can be accessed from Phantom Ranch
If you disagree, please comment and change my mind!
Other Fun Ideas:
- Mule Rides – this is not a viable option for me and Chris. There is a weight limit of 220 lbs to ride the mules. When I asked Chris if he could make it there, he looked me in the eyes and said “when I was in high school playing football, working out every day, and had 6% bodyfat, I weighed 225 lbs…. so no.” Chris is my big and strong man, what can I say? But many others enjoy this option! And I’ll be honest, I’m still spooked by the Donald Duck video.
- Colorado River Rafting Trips – this is not our cup of tea. I could be persuaded to do a river trip, but we prefer land! But this is a very exciting alternative to hiking!
Whatever adventure you choose in the Grand Canyon, prepare well, respect the heat, and enjoy every moment!
Chris and I will absolutely be back. Probably with stronger knees, more trail mix, and definitely more memories to make.

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