Packing for Adventure

We only had one full day in Cusco, which hardly feels like enough. The city is bursting with history, architecture, markets, and a lively energy that deserves more than a quick stopover. But since our trip to Peru was focused mostly on Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca, Cusco was more of a jumping-off point. Even so, the highlight of our short time there was visiting Qurikancha, also known as the Sun Temple.

The Sun Temple

We didn’t hire a formal guide in Aguas Calientes and Cusco, but we did have a driver who ferried us to different spots and filled in bits of history along the way. At Qurikancha, he explained that the temple was originally built by the Incas as a sacred place dedicated to the Sun God. But when the Spanish arrived, they reshaped the space into something that fit their own world. The Incan temple was plastered over with Catholic iconography, and a monastery was eventually built right on top of it.

Our driver spoke with disdain about the Spaniards who forced their culture on the Incan people, erasing much of what came before. Yet he himself was a devout Catholic. It seemed a bit ironic, though it was almost a living reflection of Cusco itself, a city where both traditions still coexist, layered like stone upon stone.

Stones That Speak

What struck me most was the visible contrast between the Incan architecture and the Spanish additions. Anywhere the stonework looked impossibly precise (perfect symmetry, stones fitting together without mortar, seams so tight you couldn’t slip a piece of paper between them) was Incan. Wherever things looked more uneven and a little less mysterious, that was the Spanish handiwork. It felt like looking at two different conversations carved in stone, one eternal and enigmatic, the other blunt and practical.

The Grounds

The temple grounds themselves were stunning. Lush gardens framed the ancient walls, with flowers blooming against the backdrop of centuries-old stone. It was peaceful to walk around, despite our still sore legs. The once golden walls must have gleamed in the sunlight, a beauty worthy of the Sun God it was built to honor. The gold is long gone, stripped away by conquerors, but the bones of the Incan temple remain.

There is so much mystery to Incan architecture, a mystery we didn’t get to fully explore. Next time we are in Cusco, a visit to Sacsayhuaman is at the top of our list. You won’t forget the name of this famous Incan complex… it’s pronounced a lot like “Sexy Woman!”

If you like this post, you can subscribe for free using the Subscribe button on the bottom right corner of your screen!